London, Baby!

Olive exploring The Thames. Or, quite possibly, just her toes.

The French are known for being reserved, but the folks who helped me board my London-bound Eurostar were anything but. Seeing that I was traveling alone with Olive, a huge suitcase that United Airlines tagged as HEAVY, and a diaper bag large enough to fit a second baby, the woman who checked me in assigned a buff long-haired porter to me. This kind gentleman led us to the front of the passport line as well as the boarding line and then handled my luggage until I settled into my seat on the train. I wasn't traveling First Class, but it sure felt like it. Eurostar, this is a shout-out!

All this said, I was feeling pretty darn good when we crossed into the UK. "William, Kate, George and Lupo, we've made it!" Ahh, to be able to communicate again... in English. What a luxury. And to be able to reunite with le huz after being apart for two days apart (he was working in Frankfurt, Germany), priceless.

As was the case for Paris, I'd brought along a book covering London. But I barely referenced my copy of London with Kids, for I had guide in my friend Angie whom I've known since we were 13. A yummy mummy to a gorgeous one year-old of her own, she knew exactly where to take me and Olive. But I was alone on my first day, and had to call the shots. I selfishly took the kid to Tate Modern because I like art. Munchkin's meltdowns often occur in museums because I restrict her from touching the works. So imagine how lucky I felt when our cab arrived at the Tate and the little one was asleep!

An installation by Dan Flavin at the Tate.

Olive would've touched this.

Anyhow, rather than providing the play-by-play of our time in the UK, here are my suggestions for those trying to survive-and-thrive with a tot under 2 years of age while in London. They worked for me, and hopefully they'll work for you.

1) Do bring/borrow a stroller. At this age, these little ones weigh a ton, and you really can't enjoy a pedestrian city like London without walking a bit. Buses in London run everywhere, all the time, and are more accommodating for strollers than the subway/tube. And cabs, though pricey, are spacious and stroller-ready. It rained a couple times while we were walking around, and as much of a pain as it was to have to navigate the sidewalks with a stroller, it was nice to see Olive fully-protected by the stroller's rain cover, tucked away in deep sleep. Babies are happier when they sleep!

2) Do take your kid to Hamley's. It's the FAO Schwarz of London, and Olive's mind was absolutely blown when she saw the display of Thomas the Tank Engine. There are a lot of display toys laying around for kids to play with, and it's best to allot the little ones with plenty of time to sample them all. Olive had little more than a Kindle to entertain herself with back at the hotel room, so I let her roam in the store for an hour!

Olive & Sam at Hamley's. Same height.

3) Do visit Victoria Park in Hackney. Sure, it's all the way out on the east end of London, but if you're got a kid and you actually like your kid, a trip here is well worth it. A 25 minute cab ride from Central London or a one-hour ride via public transport is all it takes. The children's play areas at Victoria Park are AMAZING. There's a paddling pool, fountain, duck pond, man-made rocks to climb, slides, baby swings, miniature houses on stilts, free clean public toilets... never take anything for granted! Olive loved this park. And the Pavilion Cafe located on the north end of the park serves fresh and tasty food at a reasonable price. Angie and I had lunch there with the babes. I wish Los Angeles had a place like this.

Munchkin with twig "crayons"

Nice house, Miles.

4) Do go for a traditional Sunday pub roast. On the weekends, pubs are surprisingly family friendly. Le huz and I met up with friends at The Water Poet in Spitalfields for a really great meal. Olive enjoyed the food as much as she enjoyed her company. That's a lot! 

The Littles giving me baby side-eye. 

No photos while we're eating, Ma.

5) Do drop by the Spitalfields City Farm. If you're already in the 'hood due to your pub roast, stroll on over to the park and farm nearby. It's free, safe and fun for kids. Le huz and Angie's huz took a quick nap in the park while we showed the kids chickens, donkeys, ponies, pigs and more...

Runaway.

Strange reaction to chicken.

6) Do make time for afternoon tea at least once during your stay. I don't actually recommend bringing the little ones, as there is way too much china to keep away from them. That said, Angie and I, thick-skinned mums, braved public-judgment and brought Olive and Miles along because we had no sitters and our desire for sweets was just that great. We splurged on Pret-a-Portea the Berkeley hotel, and it was an incredible experience. (We made a reservation.) I busted out the baby crack (iPhone streaming Elmo videos at minimal volume) to keep the munchkin quiet and wolfed down a delicate collection of cakes and fancies, inspired by the world's finest designers. Angie and I had been touring the parks of central London with the munchkins all morning, and afternoon tea was the perfect remedy.

Earning her right to afternoon tea, she runs sideways in Hyde Park.

They do things differently here.

The Littles in London

Olive & Miles in Green Park.

Dolce, Oscar, Prada, Balenciaga, McQueen, Blahnik and more. 

All made edible!

7) Do allow ample time for wandering. Good stuff turns up when you're not looking!

Olive exploring Piccadilly. 

Adopted by Uncles Luke & Jasper for the day.

Whole Foods in London has quite the sense of humor!

Russell Brand in Neal's Yard.

The flowers that inspire Liberty prints outside of Liberty London.

Dancing in the street with mommy's dear friend, Auntie Jenny.

London, you were fun. No doubt about it, we'll be back.

All smiles post-dim-sum, with her doting Uncle Chuan. 

We'll Always Have Paris

“A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of Life.” ― Thomas Jefferson

Now what if you fall asleep during the walk?

Munchkin and I are back on American soil, and boy does it feel nice. So in case you missed the memo - because you have a life - the little one and I spent the past two weeks galavanting about Paris and London. Le huz was traveling for work and we were his stowaways (aka hotel leeches). Olive had been a good traveler up until this trip to Europe, so I decided to take on the challenge... 

While le huz fulfilled work duties from 8am-11pm, I entertained the monster to the best of my ability. I'd been to both cities multiple times, but never with a child. Knowing this, I did as much research for the trip as I could. We were only going to be in Pair-ree for four days, and I wanted to make the most of it for the both of us.

While in Paris, I relied heavily on this lovely book. Wandering in a heatwave on my own is hell. Wandering in hot weather while pushing a chubby baby along cobblestone is just insane. I wanted to be open to the Paris that Olive would want to see but needed to have a rough idea as to what places would be baby friendly. The Little Bookroom Guide to Paris with Children provided some excellent options when I was out of ideas.

My suggestions for those trying to survive-and-thrive with a tot under 2 years of age. They worked for me, and hopefully they'll work for you.

1) Do take advantage of Parisian parks. Olive clocked in some major hours in various parks across Paris from small plots in Le Marais to the beloved Jardin du Luxembourg. They're plentiful and free. Unleash your little beast in one. It ensures a hearty nap.

Chillin' in Le Marais. 

2) Do take your kid for a spin on a carousel. When not asleep in her stroller (being pushed around by her stinky, sweaty mommy) Olive enjoyed spotting and riding carousels sprinkled about the city. The one kitty-corner to the Eiffel Tower was her favorite. Each time she caught a glimpse of the structure, she'd point and yell, "UP!"

Jet-lagged child staying up beyond her bedtime at the Eiffel Tower carousel. 

3) Skip the Louvre and head for the Pompidou. The Louvre's glass pyramids are worth a snapshot, but don't bother bringing your young child into the museum. A meltdown is sure to occur. Not that they don't occur at the Pompidou. Olive showed little appreciation for modern art - frowning and screaming her way through the main floors of the Pompidou. But she really enjoyed the children's gallery, Galerie des Enfants, located on the mezzanine. The museum's eye-popping "inside out" architecture didn't amuse her as much as I'd hoped, but the surplus of nasty pigeons that gathered around the the building were a hit.

Ooh... it's the Beverly Center!

4) Do take a breather at a Parisian cafe. Les Duex Magots in Saint Germain des Pres is a famous one I used to drop by when visiting in the past without a child. (Brasserie Lipp - located across the street is good too!) With a baby in tow, I prefer to seek out spots where I'm able to pull my stroller right up to an outside table and avoid making a scene just to get seated. Olive and I enjoyed people watching - and fruit salad munching - at this Parisian classic.

Selfie of les duex magots at Les Duex Magots. 

5) Do shop for your baby since French clothes are special. Celebrity-loved Bonpoint and Bonton are worth a browse. The gingerly stylized outfits are so gorgeous, but also incredibly expensive. Petit Bateau and Alice a Paris offer duds that are more affordable, but no less lovely.

Mommy & daughter photobooth fun at Bonton in the Marais. 

6) Do take a stroll along Pont des Arts. My not-so-easily-impressed daughter loved so many things about this pedestrian bridge that crosses the Seine. Built in 1804, the metallic footbridge is a destination for couples wishing to memorialize their love. Sweethearts from near and far visit the bridge to attach padlocks emblazoned with initials and messages before throwing the locks' keys into the Seine below. Olive and I attached a lock of our own. Be forewarned that your child may not take the throwing-of-the-keys-into-the-Seine bit too well. Olive was traumatized.

Not one to settle for low-hanging fruit.

7) Starbucks is your friend. Feeding my monster while in Paris wasn't exactly easy-peasy. We were staying at a hotel, and at any given time, was only able to store a small bottle of milk or small container of raspberries in the minibar for Olive's dining pleasure. On more than one occasion, Starbucks came to my rescue, offering my anti-baguette baby some welcome options for breakfast (hotcakes with syrup , fruit salad and freshly-squeezed OJ). More importantly, Starbucks (at least the two that I visited) offered that rarely-seen-across-Paris changing table for the baby in the bathroom. When traveling with a baby, I try to be flexible, not snobby. I'll take what I can get!

Forgive me father, for I have sinned. Starbucks for breakfast in Paris.

Four days flew by rather quickly. Before I knew it, I was packing our super heavy suitcase and loading her up in her Ergo carrier to catch the Eurostar to London. Olive and I will always have Paris, and I look forward to sharing photos of our mommy-daughter bonding trip with her when she's older and capable of understanding... next up, London, baby!

Au revoir!

Frying, er, FLYING with Infants

Plenty of yummy mummies on the interbutts have offered valuable pieces of mind on this subject, and I've been the benefactor of many a useful tip. Feeding during take-off and landing to ease munchkin ears of cabin pressure changes (I swear by this), offering ear plugs and/or sweets to fellow travelers as peace offerings (I've NOT done this but know many DIY-savvy mas who have), and taking full advantage of iPads, Kindles and the like ("baby-crack") while in flight (you'd be crazy not to)... all excellent suggestions.

Yes, well, here are a couple more to add to the mix. These tips may not work for your little one but they've certainly worked for mine.

1) Fly red-eye. If lucky, your monster just might sleep through most of the flight. Additional pluses? Should your child cry, you'll find that most other patrons will be too tired to give you the stink-eye. And if they do muster up the energy to dart their eyes your way, you'll find that YOU'll be to tired to notice. And ooh, let your peanut board in his/her jammies. Comfy is key.

2) Pack a familiar blanket/throw and plush toy. Babies are like dogs (I've got one of each, so I so know what I'm talking about), and the smell of stuff from home is soothing while on the road. Embrace the odors.

3) Your monster's under the age of two? Pack a carrier. I live and die by the Ergo. My baby is 18 months old, and roughly 25lbs. When traveling abroad, the stroller can sometimes be a hindrance. I'm not saying you shouldn't pack one (See tip number 4). I'm just saying a baby carrier can be a lifesaver in many situations. While in Iceland, I was able to climb a massive volcano, hike a glacier, and stroll a rocky black sand beach because I had the Ergo. While in Taipei, I was able to take her into super densely populated shopping districts. Some terrain just isn't suited for wheels. A carrier keeps your footprint small. 

4) Pack a stroller. I travel with a light umbrella stroller that has no bells and whistles. When the weather's humid or warm, you and your baby are going to hate your carrier. Having the option of wheeling your kid (and a cup o' caffeine) around is very nice.*

5) Splurge as much as you can on your hotel room/rental. In my twenties, I loved exploring new places on foot. Rain or shine, I'd wander aimlessly until it'd get dark, so decent, let alone fancy, accommodations never mattered much. Fast forward to today, I've got a baby as a sidekick. I relish in knowing I have a clean and comfy home base where we can recuperate.  I'm not saying you've got to stay at the Four Seasons or the Ritz. I'm just saying that a view and/or room service will help make your trip feel like an actual vacation. 

6) Overpack your carry-on bag. If your monster decides not to sleep on the flight, he/she is going to require lots of entertainment to survive the flight. Aside from the bare-necessities (diapers, sippy cups, wet-naps, extra-change of clothes for the baby and you), some entertainment must-haves? An iPad with downloaded episodes of your kid's fave shows. (Olive digs Curious George, Sesame Street and Dora.) A coloring book with stickers that he/she's never seen prior to your date of travel. A brand-new small Thomas the Steam Engine. In its original packaging, no less. (The packaging serves as an additional toy.) Small figurines paired with your sound effects. A favorite plush toy. A small blanket. Goldfish. Pocky. Freeze-dried fruit. (Individually-packed snacks are best, because part of the fun is in opening them.) Fresh fruit (just be sure to finish off your berries before landing in foreign territories to avoid customs issues). Ziplock bags for anything dirty or wet (diapers, tissues, bottles, regurgitated food... it happens). Chapstick (I don't know, Olive likes mine).

I'm no expert on this subject, but I have survived 22 flights with Olive to date. We're headed for Paris and London later this month... and then Maine the next. Should I uncover more "secrets," I will surely share.

* Confession. While I love having a stroller handy, our stroller usage stats suggest I shouldn't bring one when traveling with our monster. Kennebunkport, Maine. Olive at 8 months. It rained a bunch. Stroller usage: 0. Portland, Oregon. Olive at 10 months. It was cold. Stroller usage: 1. New York, New York. Olive at 13 months. It was super duper cold. Stroller usage: 0. Taipei, Taiwan. Olive at 14 months.  Lack of sidewalks and too many stairs. Stroller usage minimal. Iceland. Olive at 17 months), we were mostly on the road. Olive used the stroller once. All this said, I should probably retract this tip. If your baby is a small one, leave your stroller at home. If your baby is massive like mine, consider the terrain. You just might want to leave the wheeels at home. I'm considering RENTING a stroller while in Paris from this lovely service: baby'tems.

Ice, Ice, Baby

Olive at the Harpa in Reykjavik

Traveling with the little ones ain't an easy task, but inspired by stranger-than-fiction blogger mamas - like this one and this one... neither of which I know personally... for let's be honest, all my friends are hot-mess mamas like moi - I've managed to make it work. Since arriving on this planet, little Olive has ventured to Oregon, Maine, Massachusetts and New York. She's already been to Taiwan twice, and dude, her most recent pitstop was Iceland!

Leave it to her fabulous uncles Eric and Chuan to plan a week-long wedding celebration in Iceland, of all places. It was the perfect excuse to expose the kid to, well, MORE. As tiring as it was, le huz and I have no regrets that we brought her along, for anyone with eyes could tell that Olive enjoyed every minute of the trip. A dip in the Blue Lagoon, hike on a glacier, death-defying volcano climb, late-night dancing, and even a hot-tubbing experience into the wee hours of the night. Our monster was psyched to be included in every activity and is now addicted to Skyr (Icelandic yogurt). Kid has taste.

Olive trekking Langjokull Glacier in inappropriate footwear. 

No worries, the munchkin wasn't out for long. She's too young to be losing toes.

Blue Lagoon dip with mommy and her beloved Auntie Jen - the same day we landed in Iceland.

Kvosin Downtown Hotel in Reykjavik.

Munchkin and I have another trip planned a month from now. Mother and daughter are tagging along with le huz on his business trip. He's making stops in Paris, Frankurt and London. Olive and I are staying put in Paris while le huz works and plan to hop the Eurostar (just mommy and daughter) to meet up with friends and family in London. Le huz will meet up with us in London. As always, I'm on the look-out for travel tips from parents. In exchange, I will offer mine in my next post. They may not work for your little one, but they've certainly worked for mine.